People who know things?
Sep. 25th, 2015 11:48 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
So, practical advice sought:
A] Does anyone have any experience of making voice recordings? Podfics or reading poetry aloud to share digitally, that kind of thing? It doesn't need to be professional level or even close, but it needs to be good enough quality that the words can be heard relatively clearly. Ideally I don't want to buy a lot of equipment or spend hours doing audio processing, but I'm not sure what the minimum set-up is to achieve this. I mean, my computer has a reasonable basic mic which is good enough for things like voice calls. And I know a lot of my students use their smartphones to record tutorials and so on, and apparently that's good enough to be a revision aid. So I imagine this should be possible without major investment, but I don't know where to start.
Software recommendations especially appreciated! My desktop is Windows and my phone is Android, and my netbook is going to be Linux eventually but that's a topic for another day.
B] I'm in the process of buying a bike. I've talked to Colin at University Cycles, and he's super helpful and has offered to lend us a couple of bikes at the weekend so I can try them out. What should I be looking out for when I try the bikes? What questions should I be asking? Also, what equipment do I need? I'm thinking lights obviously, panniers, and a lock, presumably a D-lock. Anything else?
I don't expect to become a serious cyclist any time soon. I'm intending to use the bike just to potter about Cambridge, so if I can go slightly faster and with slightly less effort than walking, that's about all I'm after. One of the suggestions Colin made was a Dutch bike, which he said was solidly built and easy to maintain; definitely those features are more important to me than speed or being fantastically light or suitability for difficult off-road trails. I'm approximately convinced by the argument that cycle helmets aren't a good trade-off.
I'm not quite sure how best to judge the price point for a new bike. I would rather buy a second-hand, good quality bike than a cheap rubbish new one, but I'm not sure how much of a premium there actually is on new bikes; I suspect most people feel like me. And I'm certainly willing to pay a bit more upfront for a bike that is easy and pleasant for me to use. But equally, if it does happen that the bike becomes my major means of transport or I get excited about long distance rides, I can always sell my starter bike and buy something more specialist; I don't want to buy a very fancy vehicle off the bat though.
I'm probably not going to be a very self-sufficient sort of bike owner; I'll most likely take the bike to the shop for anything more complicated than a puncture. I do appreciate that there's no such thing as a magic, entropy-violating machine that keeps going forever with no effort, I just don't want to make bike maintenance my major hobby.
I know there was something else too, but it's gone out of my mind. Anyway, please express opinions!
A] Does anyone have any experience of making voice recordings? Podfics or reading poetry aloud to share digitally, that kind of thing? It doesn't need to be professional level or even close, but it needs to be good enough quality that the words can be heard relatively clearly. Ideally I don't want to buy a lot of equipment or spend hours doing audio processing, but I'm not sure what the minimum set-up is to achieve this. I mean, my computer has a reasonable basic mic which is good enough for things like voice calls. And I know a lot of my students use their smartphones to record tutorials and so on, and apparently that's good enough to be a revision aid. So I imagine this should be possible without major investment, but I don't know where to start.
Software recommendations especially appreciated! My desktop is Windows and my phone is Android, and my netbook is going to be Linux eventually but that's a topic for another day.
B] I'm in the process of buying a bike. I've talked to Colin at University Cycles, and he's super helpful and has offered to lend us a couple of bikes at the weekend so I can try them out. What should I be looking out for when I try the bikes? What questions should I be asking? Also, what equipment do I need? I'm thinking lights obviously, panniers, and a lock, presumably a D-lock. Anything else?
I don't expect to become a serious cyclist any time soon. I'm intending to use the bike just to potter about Cambridge, so if I can go slightly faster and with slightly less effort than walking, that's about all I'm after. One of the suggestions Colin made was a Dutch bike, which he said was solidly built and easy to maintain; definitely those features are more important to me than speed or being fantastically light or suitability for difficult off-road trails. I'm approximately convinced by the argument that cycle helmets aren't a good trade-off.
I'm not quite sure how best to judge the price point for a new bike. I would rather buy a second-hand, good quality bike than a cheap rubbish new one, but I'm not sure how much of a premium there actually is on new bikes; I suspect most people feel like me. And I'm certainly willing to pay a bit more upfront for a bike that is easy and pleasant for me to use. But equally, if it does happen that the bike becomes my major means of transport or I get excited about long distance rides, I can always sell my starter bike and buy something more specialist; I don't want to buy a very fancy vehicle off the bat though.
I'm probably not going to be a very self-sufficient sort of bike owner; I'll most likely take the bike to the shop for anything more complicated than a puncture. I do appreciate that there's no such thing as a magic, entropy-violating machine that keeps going forever with no effort, I just don't want to make bike maintenance my major hobby.
I know there was something else too, but it's gone out of my mind. Anyway, please express opinions!
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 11:01 am (UTC)As it happens the voice clips in question are only for my own use (they're part of a script which organises my exercise routine by shouting at me when I need to change over to the next thing I do), but I'd have no hesitation in using the same recording setup for something other people were going to hear :-)
For the software side, I'm currently using Audacity. (On Linux, though if I remember rightly it runs on all sorts of platforms.) That suits my use case well because it makes it easy to record each voice clip several times, play them all back, cut out the one I liked best, gain-adjust it to the right volume and save just that part as a wav file. I suppose if I were going to do any kind of longer thing, I'd probably need to automate that lot a little better.
(no subject)
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Date: 2015-09-25 06:03 pm (UTC)But the trick is to get a direct USB connection. The less the signal has to be converted and processed, the better off you'll be. A USB headset will bypass your sound card, taking one step out of the process. But if you get a USB adapter, that sort of defeats the purpose.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 04:36 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 11:13 am (UTC)Mudguards; some bikes come without. Hand-pump and repair kit. Make sure it's got reflectors if it's second-hand. Also, I recommend something hi-vis if you're going to be cycling at night, e.g. jacket or bandolier.
I'm approximately convinced by the argument that cycle helmets aren't a good trade-off.
Pshaw; Mayer Hillman's arguments cease to be valid the moment an idiot pedestrian steps out onto the road without looking and you come off and smash your head backward onto the road; or when you cycle past a street-cleaner just as the wind catches a bin-bag in his hand and inflates it so it snags your handlebars and tips you off your bike sideways (both things that have happened to me).
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 11:31 am (UTC)I don't want to rehash the helmet debate too much, but I don't think anyone's claiming that helmets never provide protection. Rather that there are counter-intuitive risk compensation effects going on, both for the cyclist themself and for how drivers treat them, and that cycling is not sufficiently more dangerous than being a pedestrian to justify insisting on helmets. Also that it's overall better for cyclists collectively if everybody doesn't wear helmets, because fewer safety measures mean more people cycle and more bikes on the roads is safer. I'm not hugely ideological about this, anyway, but you're not making an argument that actually counters anti-helmet claims by detailing examples of circumstances where wearing a helmet is better than not.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 04:00 pm (UTC)I cycle sometimes with and sometimes without (mostly with) and notice absolutely no difference in driver behaviour. As a driver, I drive no differently whether a cyclist has a helmet or not. Sure, when I've fallen from my bike I've never hit my head, but if I did I would want a helmet for protection.
As an individual, of course, that's my choice, however I'm mystified by the people who seem to advocate not wearing protective equipment that can't possibly increase the risk of injury and could possibly decrease it.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 04:16 pm (UTC)Of course, this is speculation - but what's not is that population-level studies show no effect from helmet compulsion.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 04:58 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 06:39 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 04:44 pm (UTC)Although you've said that cycle helmets , there is in fact some evidence that they do; it depends really what you measure. If you measure outcomes for people who hit their heads then those wearing helmets are protected compared to those who don't. But if helmets lead, directly or indirectly, to more people having accidents, then overall they might still increase injury risk.
I'm not completely convinced by the ideas about risk compensation and changing driver behaviour myself, so mainly I'm thinking that I'll possibly slightly increase what is already a small risk to myself, for the sake of overall reducing the risks for the population by contributing to helmet-free cycling. Basically I see cycling without a helmet, assuming I'm going slowly on dedicated paths and quiet roads, as an acceptable level of risk, even if I might, arguably but not certainly, be slightly safer with a helmet.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:23 pm (UTC)I went on a vineyard cycling tour last weekend and helmets were mandatory. It felt mad, the roads were basically empty, we were cycling as slowly as I've ever cycled. Still, it made the tour organisers happy.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-30 12:38 pm (UTC)But in general your approach sounds really sensible, you wear a helmet when you're cycling in busy traffic but not just to cycle short distances. I agree that a lot of the problem with helmets is finding somewhere to put them once you get off your bike, they're necessarily bulky. Maybe locking your helmet to your bike is the right answer.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 11:35 am (UTC)I use my bike for shopping and commuting and I would recommend what's called a hybrid, i.e. in between a road bike (thin tires) and a mountain bike (thick tires). You may also want to get a step-through frame, which makes it easier to wear things like skirts while biking as you don't have to swing your legs all the way up and over the seat. It's what I have. Lights, panniers (I actually only have one, but also technically this means getting a rack put on the bike to attach the pannier to), and locks--bike theft is terrible in the Bay Area, I use both a loop lock and a D-lock, ask the shop people to show you how--are essential, as is a helmet. I can't say this enough; I was doored by a car (in a bike lane, on a designated bike road) and was knocked unconscious, had to get 13 stitches, but I was basically fine--no concussion, even--because I was wearing a helmet. It was broken, of course, by the impact with the road and if I hadn't been wearing it I'd be brain damaged or dead.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 11:50 am (UTC)Thank you for good suggestions about bikes. I do wear skirts most of the time so I think step-through is the way forward. And yes, I need a rack to attach panniers, that's a really good point. I hadn't thought of getting a loop as well as a D-lock, so that's really good advice. People steal bikes all the time in the English Cambridge too, and part of me thinks that I just have to accept my bike will have a lifetime. But also some of my friends have said that they've gone years without a bike getting stolen if they use a D-lock, so that seems a good investment.
I'm sorry you had such a horrible accident, and glad that you were protected by your helmet. The evidence is really clear that in accidents where riders hit their heads, helmets have an important protective effect. However given that riders without helmets have fewer accidents, it's not a straightforward calculation, and I'm reasonably convinced that without helmet is better. I'm also not cycling in US cities which have considerably worse car-centric infrastructure than British ones, and that changes the balance of risk too.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 11:59 am (UTC)I do take your point about the cycling infrastructure differential. Everyone in Japan bikes and almost no one wears helmets, but that's because bikes and pedestrians are unquestionably the priority traffic, not cars. (Though weirdly, penalties for drivers of cars hitting cyclists are often quite weak.) I actually learned to bike in Japan and I think nothing of not wearing a helmet here, but I would be really afraid to do the same in the Bay Area.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 03:17 pm (UTC)I like your very apt default icon, too, I forgot to say!
Frame lock
Date: 2015-10-02 12:55 pm (UTC)When parking at Cambridge station, I lock up extra carefully. The ideal is to lock both wheels and the frame to the bike stand. With luck, I can do this on a Sheffield stand, by locking the back wheel to the frame, and looping the D-lock through the front wheel, frame and stand. Some sort of loopy lock would make this easier, but it would be harder to carry: my D-lock just clips onto the frame when I cycle.
I was very lucky to get a Belgian second hand bike from the old Station Cycles at Cambridge station. It's pretty much my ideal turn-up-and-go low maintenance bike: solid but not crazy-heavy, upright position, dynamo lights, hub gears (7 speeds, but 3 would have been enough), hub brakes, marathon tyres, mudguards, pannier racks, frame lock, D lock. For a longer ride, I try to carry a pump, as most leaks are slow enough that it's faster to pump up a flat tyre, ride 500m, lather, rinse repeat, especially if you're far from help, or commuting with time pressure.
For a cycling jacket, I like the blue Altura ones: very reflective, but not eye-wateringly high-viz.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 12:02 pm (UTC)Your Skype headset ought to be sufficient.
Thank you for good suggestions about bikes. I do wear skirts most of the time so I think step-through is the way forward. And yes, I need a rack to attach panniers, that's a really good point. I hadn't thought of getting a loop as well as a D-lock, so that's really good advice. People steal bikes all the time in the English Cambridge too, and part of me thinks that I just have to accept my bike will have a lifetime. But also some of my friends have said that they've gone years without a bike getting stolen if they use a D-lock, so that seems a good investment.
You need to secure the frame, front wheel and rear wheel all to an immobile object if possible. This is the ideal solution; but it's indispensable (which means a chain (and ideally a D-lock, but I don't take one if I'm not leaving the bike long in public areas), or two D-locks) if your bike has quick-release wheels, because quick-release is quick-nick.
FWIW, I've been cycling to work for eighteen years now, and I've never had a bike nicked, though I've had two attempts to nick my bike, both foiled by my chain, and a horn nicked from my €25 bike in Berlin (it was almost worth more than the bike).
I'm sorry you had such a horrible accident, and glad that you were protected by your helmet. The evidence is really clear that in accidents where riders hit their heads, helmets have an important protective effect. However given that riders without helmets have fewer accidents, it's not a straightforward calculation, and I'm reasonably convinced that without helmet is better. I'm also not cycling in US cities which have considerably worse car-centric infrastructure than British ones, and that changes the balance of risk too.
My experience cycling in London (though not, curiously, cycling in Edinburgh) is that drivers aren't the problem; the problem is pedestrians taking one step out onto the road before looking to see if there's any traffic, which destroys your argument.
And if, by cycling without a helmet, you think you're creating a world in which the risk of head injury is lessened for all cyclists, maybe that's so but I still think it would be increased for you.
If you insist on doing that, at least get yourself an invisible cycle helmet. It'll be cool; you'll be living the Snow Crash world.
Speaking of invisible cycle accessories, check out this.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 12:36 pm (UTC)The causation here is that both the cyclist and the drivers around the cyclist are likely to take more care to avoid risky behaviours (like cycling in the dooring zone, or tailgating) if the cyclist appears/feels more vulnerable.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:15 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 03:26 pm (UTC)Thank you for the detailed description of how to lock up the bike. I was dimly aware that you have to lock up the wheels as well as the frame, but this is really clear on why. And yeah, I think it's worth spending money and effort on a decent lock if it means I can keep the bike for years rather than months.
Regarding helmets, if I were doing regular serious commuting in London, I'd wear one, so I'm not surprised that you make that choice. But I'm planning on occasional pottering about in Cambridge, mostly sticking to bike paths as much as I can, so I can do the civic thing of making cycling overall safer by eschewing unnecessary safety precautions.
I do love the cool futuristic tech! I think I don't need an invisible helmet, my problem with bike helmets is not that they're ugly and bulky, but that the expectation and practice of helmet use paradoxically reduces cycling safety. And I think I'd rather just wear plain reflective clothes than invisible reflective paint, but that is still some very impressive chemistry!
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 04:37 pm (UTC)The things are engineered down to the standards to make them light and breathable, and the standards specify something about 1/8 as robust as the average skull. It might _feel_ akin to wearing a bulletproof vest, but it's more like putting a cigar case in your top pocket and hoping.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:09 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 06:30 pm (UTC)This started the whole thing off, and is where the 85% and 89% figures for effectiveness come from. http://cyclehelmets.org/1068.html (and the entire site is useful) discusses it in more detail, but the potted summary is that it's pretty dubious.
There is then an enormous collection of papers (often with some non-empty subset of TRT involved) which assume TRT '89 got it right and proceed on that basis.
You've found the Cochrane review from 1999 which is discussed at http://cyclehelmets.org/1069.html ... guess which three people did that review, assuming blithely that they got it right in 1989?
(Also, while this does not prove any misconduct, guess who funded TRT's research? The manufacturers of foam hats...)
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1410838/ is a paper by Dorothy Robinson documenting some of the compelling evidence that no jurisdiction that has introduced and enforced helmet compulsion has produced thereby a significant drop in head injury rates. The only conclusion I can draw from that is that they _don't_ work; speculation as to why is interesting (especially when presented with the intuitively appealing idea that they must) but is ultimately not pertinent.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-30 12:54 pm (UTC)I think there's a bit of problem with arguing from compulsion doesn't work to helmets don't work; an obvious explanation would be that the legislation is not effective at changing behaviour and not properly enforced. It's like comparing countries with different abortion laws; where abortion is in fact illegal the rate of abortion isn't substantially lower than in countries where the procedure is legal and available, but I don't think anyone would argue that abortion doesn't successfully terminate pregnancies.
But ok, it seems like the evidence in favour of helmets protecting cyclists is worse than I thought it was, easy enough to accept that conclusion given that it leads to the same decision I was planning to make anyway :-)
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-30 02:24 pm (UTC)So I'd say it's more as if governments keep legislating homeopathy. After a while one has to conclude it's not because people don't take their sugar pills, especially if we know full well in some places they do, but because they just don't do anything.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 04:18 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:16 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 06:34 pm (UTC)Given that, at a conservative estimate, one in ten helmet wearers will tell you a "saved my life" anecdote, we conclude:
1) helmets make you grossly accident-prone (in which case, don't wear one, and why don't helmet wearers keep breaking bones etc).
2) only the grossly accident-prone wear helmets (but clearly usage rates too high for that to be true).
or 3) nearly all these anecdotes are wrong.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 11:38 am (UTC)b) Re: your comment below: pump is worth having one each because you ideally want to have a pump on you while you are out and about - if you get a slow puncture or just realise that you're a bit flat, you can fix things on the go. And they're so cheap that there's no real benefit to not having one each. Repair kits depend more on whether you would eg fix a puncture while out - I wouldn't, so it's not really worth carrying one around.
Gloves are very useful - I almost never wear them normally, but my hands get cold on the handlebars in all the wind. Also, if your chain falls off it's easily fixed but messy - get oil all over your gloves instead of your hands, that's my vote.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 11:54 am (UTC)I used not to, but if you get a puncture en route, it's a major nuisance having to continue your journey by other means and go back and collect the bike later. If you repair it on the spot, it's ten minutes out of your time (probably a bit more if you've not done it much before, maybe less if you use self-adhesive patches rather than vulcanising rubber glue), and that's it, you're back on the road, almost on schedule, and the issue is in the past.
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Date: 2015-09-25 12:24 pm (UTC)When I do go far enough that "walk to bike shop" become non-viable I take *spare inner tubes* which requires less pratting about with glue.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:22 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 04:03 pm (UTC)I've got a puncture in London before now, in the early mornings before the cycle shops open and have got my bike to the shop (because they're everywhere) and then tried to fix it outside. One time I spent over an hour fighting with the tyre before the professional came and fixed it in ten. I really really need to learn how to fix a puncture efficiently!
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:24 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:26 pm (UTC)I carry the items much for the same reason as I always have jump leads in any car I'm driving. I can't use them alone, but good samaritan types can ... or I can offer them to people in need who need the equipment but have the skill.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-30 01:04 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 11:55 am (UTC)Good point about having a pump I can take with me rather than just living in our shed. I think if I get a puncture I'm most likely going to walk the bike home and fix it there, but if I do start doing longer expeditions I should consider a kit.
Gloves is a really good point! What material is sensible for cycling gloves that are liable to get covered in oil? I usually wear gloves when I'm outdoors in the winter anyway, and I can well imagine that my hands will get even colder when I'm cycling.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 11:58 am (UTC)I bought a cheap pair of navy felt-ish wool gloves that I didn't mind ruining. Someone once lent me a pair of riding gloves, though, and that was useful - the rubber grip pads on the palm helped quite a bit! They would be more expensive, though.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:26 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 12:22 pm (UTC)I buy gloves intended for skiing. Nice and warm.
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Date: 2015-09-28 05:29 pm (UTC)BTW did you have any issues getting a bike that was the right height for you? I know you're quite a bit shorter than me, but I'm still shorter than the supposedly average (ie male) customer.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 07:32 pm (UTC)If I were doing it now, I'd go to an actual bike shop, be prepared to spend more and go for a hybrid. I would avoid buying online or buying a bike model you haven't sat on and test ridden - as well as frame size, you're going to want to test the distance between seat and handlebars.
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Date: 2015-09-25 12:13 pm (UTC)I have no advice for you because I'm in the US and you're not, so I have no ideas what brands are available to you, or what prices are like over there, but ENJOY.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:35 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 12:19 pm (UTC)Bike locks> D locks are better locks, but they are also REALLY ANNOYING because they don't fit round lamp posts or trees or other improvised bike stands. Also the good ones are very expensive. For me the trade off is that my cheaper bike gets a sturdy chain lock that goes round more things whilst the expensive bike gets a D-lock that cost more than many bikes (it was a condition of the insurance, I don't think I'd have gone with it otherwise).
Dutch bikes> the downside is weight. But Cambridge is flat. They are sturdy and reliable. And I quite like mine, except for the heavyness. Mine was about 150 from Colin second hand (a decade ago), although I went on to improve it with more gears and my preferred saddle (NB - saddles are very easy to change, if you find a nice bike with a horrid saddle then you can fix this by changing the saddle).
Bike accessories> some way of attaching luggage-to-bike is vital. Panniers are good, I also like baskets; although baskets do really change the handling of the bike. Many Dutch-type bikes come with dynamo lights, these have the advantage of never needing charging and remaining on the bike rather than getting lost. Chain guards, and especially fully enclosed chain cases are *brilliant* for avoiding getting clothes caught in the chain.
You should certainly take up the offer of an extended test ride; it's only by actually using a bike that you get a real idea of whether it is right *for you* - is it the right size for instance?
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 07:18 pm (UTC)I have *never* fallen on my head. Not even the time I rode my bike *up a wall* (I was a small child and stupid) or the time I tried to do a wheely on a speed hump and flipped the bike. I honestly don't understand how people are falling and hitting their heads in low speed falling off incidents (when hit by a car at 30mph and one has rather less time to think) and mostly conclude that either helmet-wearing destroys one's sense of how one's body is positioned and moving in the world or that I am unusually good at falling (practice helps?).
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:05 pm (UTC)The most egregious case of this I know is Simon Brooke, who crashed into granite boulders on a twisty descent at 46mph, breaking his neck (thankfully making a full recovery) but suffering no head injury at all. He would be proclaiming his helmet saved his life... except he was wearing a cotton cycling cap.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-30 01:16 pm (UTC)If I were going purely by anecdotes, there seems to be a huge range in people's experience. I mean, I know quite a lot of people who have "helmet saved my life" stories, but beyond that, I know people who have been cycling regularly for decades and never fallen off at all, and people who get in lots of accidents, and then you come along and say you fall all the time but never hit your head. I am starting to feel that maybe brushing up my falling skills (did judo when I was 12-ish, but it's been a long time) would do a better job of protecting me than wearing a helmet!
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Date: 2015-09-28 05:50 pm (UTC)That's a good point about D locks not fitting round poles, and that's probably a good reason to get a chain as well.
I do like the idea of a Dutch bike, and indeed that was Colin's first suggestion to me. I think I would rather have sturdy than light, especially as I intend to cycle short distances slowly in a flat place. I will see if I can get dynamo lights and a chain guard, too.
I think the test riding is going to be difficult. Partly because Colin was extremely vague about when he planned to show up and I'm just not at home that much. Plus I have a feeling that I'm going to be very biased by how comfortable the saddle is, but now you've given me this advice I'll try to compensate for that.
(no subject)
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Date: 2015-09-25 12:37 pm (UTC)I bought my bicycle secondhand from Ebay. It was less than 50% of the price if it had been new. My feeling is that there is a time, cost, specificity trade off when buying bikes. Lots of people will pay a premium not to have to spend a month searching Gumtree for a suitable bike.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 06:00 pm (UTC)Good to know about chain guards, thank you.
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Date: 2015-09-25 03:40 pm (UTC)Things that I find greatly reduce maintainance faff or otherwise make life easier, in rough order of cost:
* mudguards (you probably don't want the sort of bike that comes without as it will be either the wrong sort of bike for Cambridge or very cheap & nasty)
* a chain guard means you don't have to carry cycle clips around and don't have to worry about leaving your bike out in the rain where the chain will rust (Dutch bikes will have these)
* a skirt guard if you plan on cycling in long skirts or flappy coats. Again, Dutch bikes will have these.
* a dynamo with lights permanently attached to the bike (so you don't have to worry about batteries/carrying lights around) - these come in two sorts, hub (more expensive and make taking the wheel off a bit more faff, but super reliable) and bottle (cheaper but more likely to go wrong). You're less likely to get this already on the bike unless it's expensive, but they can be retro-fitted and you know lots of people who can do that for you.
* hub brakes and gears - Dutch bikes will probably have these. They reduce maintainance faff and leaving-it-out-in-the-rain pain at the cost of making it faffier to take your wheel off, but particularly in the case of hub brakes they're much easier to get safely aligned than rim brakes.
Remember when you're test-riding that saddle height is very easy to change, and Colin will happily swap the handlebars for ones of a different shape if you find the ones on the bike awkward (lots of Dutch bikes have very swept-back ones which I find uncomfortable).
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-30 01:31 pm (UTC)Good point about the saddle and handlebars. I think it's going to be pretty hard to make sure I test the frame rather than those changeable peripherals, but I'll try to keep that in mind.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 03:46 pm (UTC)Mudguards and a skirt guard keep clothes clean and stop long skirts getting caught in your wheel.
A fully-enclosed chain stops clothes getting caught in the chain and also means the chain needs much less maintrnance. It also means you need to have hub gears (if you have gears at all). You may not want gears in Cambridge but if you do I think 3 should suffice. They're quite helpful on hills or in a strong headwind.
I like having a front hub dynamo which runs a very bright front and back light. This is expensive but means I am never caught without batteries in my lights. (I use battery lights also, partly because belt-and-braces, partly for better total visibility).
I wear a helmet that looks like a hat. This means I don't suffer as much from the "she has a helmet, I can pass v close" problem, but if I get squished by a lorry nobody will tell my grieving family I should have worn a helmet. Bandbox and Yakkay are two brands that sell helmets with various different covers. Neither are cheap.
I have never fallen off my Dutch bike and accept that in injury terms the helmet is probably extraneous.
For a "just get on and go" bicycle I think it's hard to do better than an upright Dutch-style bike. They are not light and therefore not very fast, but they're pretty reliable, and with the right panniers can carry a week's worth of shopping. Thry'd be fine for things like a day trip out to Wicken Fen for a picnic, too.
Your bike needs to be harder to steal than the other bikes. Using two kinds of lock helps.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 06:47 pm (UTC)-not all bicycle pumps will inflate all inner tubes. The two most common valve types are Schraeder and Praesta; a good track pump can cope with either of these. I usually try to pick one and stick with it because I always lose the adapter for my portable pump.
-I agree that it's worth spending money on puncture-proof tyres, especially on the back wheel, especially if you have a type of bicycle where removing the back wheel is a significant faff.
-I actually really love coaster brakes (pedal backward to stop: will fail if a) the chain breaks or b) you spend so long going downhill that it overheats and the metal deforms), but YMMV.
Lots of this is down to preference, so it is definitely worth spending time testing any bicycle you might buy.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-30 02:25 pm (UTC)When I was talking to the bike guy we agreed that I need few or no gears for Cambridge. And I definitely like the idea of a Dutch bike, I care more about reliable than light, and being able to carry things would be good.
I will see about dynamo lights; I don't think that's necessarily the deciding factor, as I can always get cheap battery lights and then upgrade to dynamo ones later, but I do like the idea of paying a bit more upfront and then not having to deal with batteries. Or lights which can be lost or stolen.
I am not sure I want to go to the hassle of a helmet that's disguised as a hat, but thank you for the tip.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-30 05:00 pm (UTC)More on lights:
Hub dynamos and the other kind (I don't remember what they are called) are different. The latter are cheaper, but as I understand it make the bike a lot harder to ride and wear out the front tyre faster.
If using a dynamo, a rear light with a built-in capacitor (aka a "standlight") is a good thing: it stays on when the bike is stationary, usually for two to four minutes, so long enough for most traffic lights. Front lights can come with this too, but on the grounds that you can see what's in front of you and you aren't moving, it's less important. (Nice to have though.)
It may be a good idea to get some very cheap small battery lights too and stash them somewhere on the bike (taping them to the underside of the saddle is a good option, maybe?) so that if your dynamo stops working you can get home legally. And I personally wouldn't want to be without the battery powered light that is fitted permanently to my rear mudguard, because I'm not going to notice the rear dynamo-powered light not working until I get off the bike. But as previously noted, I'm in London and there are tipper lorries around, so I take visibility fairly seriously (my normal complement of rear lights runs to 5 including the dynamo, plus a spare. Most people think this is excessive. The USB ones get charged as needed, the others are all fairly long-life and get new batteries every three months whether they need it or not, except in summer.)
Knog 'Blinder' USB-chargeable lights are a bit expensive, but attach to the bicycle very quickly and it's easy to angle the front ones down slightly to avoid blinding passing pedestrians. It's easy to put a D-ring lock through them once they're off the bicycle, in such a way that they can't be nicked without the attachment mechanism being destroyed. This also prevents them being lost in the bottom of a backpack or pannier (though attaching them to a strap -- using a carabiner clip or similar -- means you can see it if they accidentally get turned on.)
I am happy to risk having to push the bike home or go back for it the next day if I have a flat tyre but faced with the possibility of having to use a different form of transport for lack of lights, I'd rather have extra lights.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 03:48 pm (UTC)Consider USB-charged bike lights. Makes recharging very convenient.
Consider puncture-resistant tires. They're not 100% indestructible but they do help.
Consider cartridge brakes, if not immediately then the first time you replace your brakes. Replacing brakes is one of the easier maintenance tasks; or at least, it causes me a lot less swearing than puncture repair does.
Keep a spare inner tube around. It's quicker to swap inner tubes than to repair a puncture. (I'm bad at the bit where you repair the punctured inner tube at your leisure though!) Some people just keep whole wheels ready to swap in...
Make sure you actually know how to pump up tires in advance of having to do so. A colleague spent several minutes pumping vigorously at a closed valve not so long ago.
Figure out strategies for not leaving things like lock and lights at home (or anywhere else), and for ensuring lights stay charged (if you don't use a dynamo). For me the danger points where the lock leaves the bike but doesn't always come back are repair and maintenance activities.
Panniers are MUCH more pleasant than backpacks, but you don't have to decide between the two: you can get convertible backpack/panniers, ideal for multimodal journeys.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 04:08 pm (UTC)I'll umpteenth the call for a helmet: I've come off this bike once (chain slipped off and instead of getting lots of traction the pedal slid through, and moments later I hit the ground); I've almost come off when getting too close to a minute edge in the pavement that aligned perfectly with my wheel.
My advice on bikes it to try out every style and every size until you find one that fits you like a glove - I've had lots of people trying to sell me bikes that are too small (I ride a 21' frame; people have tried to flog me 18' and even a 16'. AAARGH.) The right frame size makes a lot of difference.
Personally, my experience with trying to find a good second-hand bike were abysmal: you're better off buying last years (or the year before's) model than a bike that might have been kept outside, ridden up and down kerbs, or otherwise abused.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 04:11 pm (UTC)My bike kit includes
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 04:54 pm (UTC)I recently got a new bike headlight; I'm strongly tempted to put masking tape over it when I use it at night.
Oh, which reminds me: studies have shown keeping your sidelights on during the day reduces accidents; I do this with my bike too now.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 05:01 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 04:32 pm (UTC)Dynamo lights are good, but - although I still use a dynamo - the advent of modern LED lights has made battery lights vastly more viable than they were. In particular I think it is worth having two entirely independent rear lights (at least one of which, hence, will not be dynamo driven) because you can't tell when your rear light goes out until some idiot hits you up the stern tubes.
I also like LED battery head-torches, even if I do keep losing them. It is much easier to deal with a mechanical in the dark with a light that's fixed to your head than one fixed to the bicycle (especially if it's a dynamo-fed one that will go out in four minutes).
Gloves are good in the cold and wet - the hands feel the weather more than other bits. Waterproofs - others speak highly of rain legs.
A pump is useful even with no puncture kit - if you get a slow flat you can pump it up and ride home.
You might consider a mirror, some people like them. For all my skepticism on the subject of plastic hats, I was taken with the ingenuity of the "Reevu", a helmet with an ingenious periscope-ish arrangement such that if you looked up at your hat-brim you were looking out the back of your head. Bicycle mounted mirrors generally give problems with vibration.
A cyclecomputer is really nice if you wish to feel smug about getting the miles in. Avoid expensive wireless computers; wired ones are much cheaper and even the low-end ones are very reliable.
A saddle cover (or "plastic bag", as unsophisticates call them) eases life on wet days.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 06:48 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-25 07:52 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-26 08:10 pm (UTC)No matter how good a speaking voice you have, the recordings will always be unflattering - try not to be dispirited by that.
Cycle Helmets
Date: 2015-09-27 10:49 pm (UTC)Were you in Cambridge when JH hit a pothole and came off his bike? He circulated a photograph of his broken helmet with the caption, "This is what my skull would have looked like if I had not worn a helmet."
Personally, I always wear a helmet, however short the journey. I do not understand the difficulties in wearing a helmet. In contrast, a lock is a nuisance but is essential in Cambridge.
I do not know University Cycles but I have found Station Cycles (now in the Grand Arcade car park) helpful for both new and second-hand bicycles.
As many friends have commented, always test ride a range of bicycles. A bicycle must fit the individual rider.
I found out the hard way that cheap bicycles, new or second-hand, are rubbish.
Southernwood
Re: Cycle Helmets
Date: 2015-09-28 01:37 pm (UTC)http://www.bmj.com/content/346/bmj.f3817.full?ijkey=I5vHBog6FhaaLzX&keytype=ref
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 05:43 pm (UTC)I muddle through assuming I won't get a puncture, and if I do, I walk the bike home and replace the inner tube. I used to try to patch tyres, but it never worked as well. Learning to do that better is still something I intend to do "one day", but isn't a high priority.
I don't do much other maintenance stuff. I learned how to notice when the tyres need pumping (though "every week" would be better), or if the breaks are rubbing, and I can adjust a few simple things. Taking it to a bike shop is perfectly acceptable, as long as you have the time.
If you do long cycles where walking home isn't an option, then yes, being able to fix puncture and carry on is needed, but I don't.
I assumed I'd show you maintenance stuff that I already know as it comes up, so don't feel the need to learn it pro-actively unless you want to.
Gloves -- in winter, I really really need gloves, but I found anything that cut out wind-chill was fine, I didn't get anything fancy.
Lights -- Yes!
Lock -- We talked about this a little.
Chain guard, mud guard, etc -- Sometimes extra, but definitely needed on commuter bike.
Pump -- I have already. I may even have an old hand pump for "topping up" if you get a slow puncture, although I don't bother, I just limp home somehow.
Simple tools -- I have, although not great ones.
Dynamo lights -- may be better, I don't know. USB lights, I didn't have them before, but they sound much better, I wouldn't get ones that need batteries if there's another choice.
Dutch bike -- I'm not sure how much less maintenance it needs, I ended up cycling more than I expected every time I made a decision, so I didn't want a heavy bike, but if you're happy to go slow, may be better.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 06:17 pm (UTC)And yes, whatever Colin at university cycles sells you is almost certainly good value.
(no subject)
Date: 2015-09-28 06:48 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2015-10-05 05:19 pm (UTC)